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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.